If you’ve spent any time navigating the complex world of skincare, particularly during pregnancy or the postpartum period, you’ve likely experienced a familiar sense of overwhelm. The simple act of picking up a familiar product can trigger a cascade of questions: Is this safe? Should I be using something different? What does "clean" skincare even mean, and why does it feel like everything in my current routine suddenly doesn’t measure up?

Dr. Aegean Chan, a board-certified dermatologist and mother of three, offers a refreshing and reassuring perspective on these anxieties. For years, she has observed the pervasive fear-mongering within the beauty and skincare industry, a trend that preys on the heightened concerns of pregnant and postpartum women. Her diagnosis of the situation is clear: the industry has profited from maternal anxiety, the "clean beauty" movement often lacks scientific rigor, and many individuals are engaging in far more complex skincare routines than are necessary.

Dr. Chan’s insights stem from her own decade-long journey through pregnancy, postpartum, and breastfeeding, during which she witnessed these trends not only affecting her patients and friends but also herself. Her conclusion is that much of the complexity is unnecessary, driven by marketing rather than genuine need.

In response to this, Dr. Chan has launched More Than Nine, a minimalist skincare line specifically designed for the various stages of motherhood. However, her core mission extends beyond product development. She is passionate about demystifying skincare, challenging the convoluted routines that have become the norm, and offering a simpler, more accessible approach.

The Overcomplicated Skincare Landscape for Mothers

The author admits to a personal history of being a dedicated skincare enthusiast, meticulously following elaborate routines. However, a bout of eczema, concerning eyelid issues, and a slow realization that her efforts were actually harming her skin led to a reevaluation. This personal experience made her particularly receptive to Dr. Chan’s pragmatic approach.

Dr. Chan notes that skincare has transformed into a chore for many, particularly mothers. "I have multiple friends, multiple moms at the playground, who tell me they’ve had ‘fix my routine’ on their to-do list for six months because it feels like too much to even dive into," she explains. The irony, she points out, is that most of the added steps were never essential.

Deconstructing the "Clean Beauty" Phenomenon

A significant focus of Dr. Chan’s critique is the fear-based marketing prevalent in the beauty and skincare sector, especially its impact on expectant and new mothers. "Fear-mongering in skincare has become standard," she states. "Scaring your consumer has become a kind of gold standard. And the ‘clean beauty’ label – it literally means nothing. There’s no data to suggest that clean or natural products are safer than well-formulated conventional ones. The dose is what matters. But brands have figured out that fear sells.”

She specifically addresses the demonization of parabens. Despite their widespread use and established safety profiles, parabens have been targeted by marketing campaigns, leading to a "paraben-free" selling point. Dr. Chan clarifies that commonly used parabens are among the safest preservatives available, with low allergy rates and a long history of safe use. "They’ve won the non-contact allergen of the year award from dermatologists multiple times," she asserts. "As in – this is a great preservative, stop swapping it out.”

The reformulation efforts to remove parabens have, paradoxically, led to the introduction of alternatives with higher reaction rates. Dr. Chan observes more contact dermatitis in her practice stemming from "natural" and "clean" products than from conventional ones, particularly citing natural deodorants where unstable essential oils can degrade into potent allergens. "I tell people: just switch to the Dove sensitive. It’s fine," she advises.

The fear surrounding chemical sunscreens during pregnancy is another area where Dr. Chan sees evidence being overshadowed by misinformation. "There’s been a lot of messaging that you can’t use chemical sunscreens while pregnant, and there’s literally no good data to support that," she states. This is particularly problematic for individuals with deeper skin tones, as mineral-only recommendations can be unhelpful or even exclusionary. "You’re actually doing people a disservice," she says. "They feel like there are no options, and then they just don’t wear it."

This creates a self-perpetuating cycle: brands capitalize on consumer demand fueled by fear, retailers enforce strict ingredient lists, which dictates brand formulations, further shaping consumer perceptions. Dr. Chan aims to break this cycle by providing transparent, evidence-based information and empowering consumers to make informed decisions.

Understanding Pregnancy-Safe Skincare

While certain ingredients, such as retinoids and hydroquinone, do require caution during pregnancy, Dr. Chan emphasizes the distinction between scientifically-backed advice and marketing ploys. "If you say something is pregnancy safe, unless you’re testing it on a pregnant woman – which you can’t – you can’t actually make that claim," she explains. Her goal is to equip women with the understanding to make their own choices, rather than succumbing to fear-driven purchasing decisions.

More Than Nine’s website features an educational resource called "Is This Okay?" where users can find reliable, accessible answers to ingredient and safety questions. This initiative addresses the difficulty new mothers face in navigating complex medical and scientific information while managing the demands of early parenthood.

The brand’s formulations are meticulously reviewed by an independent toxicologist to ensure safety margins are maintained. Dr. Chan prioritizes ingredients with a proven track record of efficacy, such as glycerin, which is a key component in their cleanser and moisturizer. "Classic ingredients don’t get enough credit," she notes. "We know glycerin works. It’s cost-effective, it makes a formula feel great, and it’s genuinely one of the best things you can use for hydration – especially postpartum, when so many women find their skin has gotten significantly drier and more sensitive.”

Even seemingly standard ingredients like Vitamin C are approached with a pragmatic lens. Dr. Chan questions its necessity in every mother’s routine, acknowledging that consistency can be a challenge amidst the chaos of new parenthood. She prioritizes foundational skincare elements that deliver reliable results.

Dr. Chan’s Simplified Skincare Routine

Dr. Chan herself practices a minimalist approach to skincare. Her routine typically involves a cleanser in the shower, followed by moisturizer and a non-negotiable sunscreen application. For specific concerns like hyperpigmentation, she might incorporate a glycolic and melisyl serum a couple of times a week. In the evening, it’s a repeat of the cleanser and moisturizer, with an over-the-counter retinoid used a few nights a week. "Not exciting," she admits, "But it works.”

A Personal Trial of More Than Nine Products

The author tested three products from the More Than Nine line, finding them effective and reasonably priced. The "Take a Sec Cleanser" is described as a creamy, gentle foaming formula that effectively removes makeup and SPF without stripping the skin. The "Look Alive Exfoliator" is a powder-to-water formula that allows for customizable intensity, a departure from harsh exfoliants of the past. The "Go-To Moisturizer" is praised for its lightweight yet hydrating properties, suitable for various weather conditions.

Dr. Chan’s philosophy behind More Than Nine is rooted in her extensive experience navigating motherhood. "Motherhood is long," she emphasizes. "The phases all blend together. You’re not going to stop and say, ‘I’m no longer pregnant, let me rework my skincare.’ I wanted something that could just carry you through.” This sentiment extends beyond skincare, highlighting the tendency to overcomplicate aspects of motherhood, with skincare being a logical starting point for simplification.