If you’ve navigated the world of skincare during pregnancy or the postpartum period, you’re likely familiar with the overwhelming feeling of uncertainty. Picking up a familiar product, only to scrutinize its ingredient list with growing concern, can send you into a spiral of questions: "Is this safe? Should I be using something different? What does ‘clean’ truly mean, and why does it feel like everything I own is suddenly disqualified?"

Dr. Aegean Chan, a board-certified dermatologist and mother of three, offers a refreshing perspective on this common anxiety. Having witnessed firsthand the fear-mongering prevalent in the beauty industry and experienced it herself through years of pregnancy, postpartum, and breastfeeding, Dr. Chan asserts that much of the "clean beauty" movement is scientifically unfounded and that many individuals, particularly mothers, are engaging in overly complicated skincare routines. Her new minimalist skincare line, More Than Nine, developed with the unique needs of motherhood in mind, is set to launch this month, but her primary goal is to simplify skincare for women, challenging the notion that a complex, expensive routine is necessary.

The Skincare Overload in Motherhood

The journey into motherhood often coincides with a heightened awareness of personal health and the products used on one’s body. For many, this leads to an obsessive dive into skincare. The author, a self-proclaimed skincare enthusiast, recounts years of elaborate routines, only to realize her skin was inflamed rather than grateful for the effort. This personal experience paved the way for receptiveness to Dr. Chan’s critique.

Dr. Chan observes that skincare has become a daunting chore for many women. "I have multiple friends, multiple moms at the playground, who tell me they’ve had ‘fix my routine’ on their to-do list for six months because it feels like too much to even dive into," she states. The irony, she points out, is that most of the added steps and products were likely unnecessary from the outset. This sentiment is echoed by numerous consumer surveys indicating increased concern about product ingredients during pregnancy, yet often without clear, scientifically grounded guidance. A 2023 report by the American Academy of Dermatology noted a significant rise in patient inquiries about ingredient safety during pregnancy, often driven by conflicting online information.

Unpacking the "Clean Beauty" Movement: A Lack of Scientific Foundation

Dr. Chan is particularly vocal about the fear-based marketing tactics that permeate the beauty and skincare industry, especially when targeting pregnant and postpartum women who are already experiencing elevated anxiety. "Fear-mongering in skincare has become standard," she explains. "Scaring your consumer has become a kind of gold standard. And the ‘clean beauty’ label – it literally means nothing. There’s no data to suggest that clean or natural products are safer than well-formulated conventional ones. The dose is what matters. But brands have figured out that fear sells."

A prime example of this is the demonization of parabens. While often cited as harmful, Dr. Chan clarifies that the parabens commonly used in cosmetics are among the safest preservatives available, with a long history of use and low rates of allergic reactions. In fact, they have frequently been recognized by dermatologists for their efficacy. "They’ve won the non-contact allergen of the year award from dermatologists multiple times," she notes. "As in – ‘this is a great preservative, stop swapping it out.’"

The reformulation of products to remove parabens has often led to the introduction of alternatives with higher reaction rates. Dr. Chan reports seeing more contact dermatitis in her practice from products marketed as "natural" or "clean" than from conventional ones, particularly from natural deodorants that can contain unstable essential oils which degrade into potent allergens. "I tell people: just switch to the Dove sensitive. It’s fine," she advises, highlighting the availability of effective, well-tolerated alternatives.

The discourse around chemical sunscreens during pregnancy also exemplifies this trend, where fear appears to have outpaced scientific evidence. "There’s been a lot of messaging that you can’t use chemical sunscreens while pregnant, and there’s literally no good data to support that," Dr. Chan states. She emphasizes that mineral sunscreens, while often promoted as safer, are not universally suitable or effective across all skin tones. For individuals with deeper complexions, recommendations for mineral-only or "paraben-free" products can effectively discourage sunscreen use altogether, a disservice that carries significant health implications. "You’re actually doing people a disservice," she warns. "They feel like there are no options, and then they just don’t wear it." This issue is critical, as UV protection is paramount for all skin types to prevent sun damage and reduce the risk of skin cancer.

The industry’s ecosystem creates a self-perpetuating cycle: brands cite consumer demand, consumers believe they need specific products due to marketing, and retailers enforce stringent ingredient lists, influencing formulation and consumer perception. "I don’t know how to break that cycle," Dr. Chan admits. "My part is just to be transparent, give people the information, and trust them to think for themselves."

Understanding Pregnancy-Safe Skincare: Evidence vs. Marketing

While certain ingredients, such as retinoids and hydroquinone, do warrant caution during pregnancy, Dr. Chan stresses the importance of distinguishing evidence-based advice from marketing claims. "If you say something is pregnancy safe, unless you’re testing it on a pregnant woman – which you can’t – you can’t actually make that claim," she explains. Her aim is to empower women with information so they can make informed decisions, rather than succumbing to fear-driven purchasing.

More Than Nine’s website features an educational resource called "Is This Okay?" designed to provide accessible, vetted answers to ingredient and safety questions. This initiative addresses the current scarcity of reliable information, which is often scattered across professional medical websites and complex scientific databases.

The product formulations from More Than Nine are reviewed by an independent toxicologist to ensure safety margins are respected. The line prioritizes ingredients with a proven track record of efficacy, such as glycerin, a key component in their cleanser and moisturizer. "Classic ingredients don’t get enough credit," Dr. Chan notes. "We know glycerin works. It’s cost-effective, it makes a formula feel great, and it’s genuinely one of the best things you can use for hydration – especially postpartum, when so many women find their skin has gotten significantly drier and more sensitive."

Even widely recommended ingredients like Vitamin C are met with a pragmatic approach. Dr. Chan expresses skepticism about its necessity in most mothers’ routines, citing the difficulty many women face in consistently using it due to the lack of immediate results amidst the chaos of early motherhood. She prioritizes consistency with foundational products that deliver more significant benefits.

Dr. Chan’s Minimalist Skincare Routine

Dr. Chan herself advocates for a stripped-down approach to skincare. Her daily routine typically includes:

• Morning: Cleanser (in the shower), moisturizer, and a generous application of sunscreen (two finger-lengths, non-negotiable). On occasion, she might incorporate a glycolic and melisyl serum for hyperpigmentation, used a couple of times a week.
• Evening: Cleanser, an over-the-counter retinoid a few nights a week, and moisturizer.

"Not exciting," she admits, "but it works."

A Personal Endorsement: Testing More Than Nine Products

The author of the original article tested three products from the More Than Nine line, each priced under $30. The "Take a Sec Cleanser" is described as a creamy, foaming formula that effectively removes SPF and makeup without stripping the skin. The "Look Alive Exfoliator," a powder-to-foam product, offers customizable intensity and is a gentler alternative to harsh physical scrubs. The "Go-To Moisturizer" is noted for its lightweight yet hydrating properties, suitable for various climates.

Dr. Chan developed More Than Nine after nearly a decade of experiencing pregnancy, postpartum, and breastfeeding. "Motherhood is long," she reflects. "The phases all blend together. You’re not going to stop and say, ‘I’m no longer pregnant, let me rework my skincare.’ I wanted something that could just carry you through."

This philosophy extends beyond skincare, suggesting a broader need to simplify expectations and provide practical, effective solutions for mothers, allowing them to focus on the profound experience of raising a family without unnecessary complications.